Torridon Mountain Rescue Team

  • Home
  • About us
  • History
  • New base
  • Training
  • Support us
  • Contact

Training, February 2015, Meall Gorm, Applecross

02.01.2015 by Torridon MRT // Leave a Comment

gerry

Team training in February was, for me, a home fixture, on Meall Gorm, Applecross. Thirteen team members attended. Conditions were not ideal – a not unusual Scottish winter mountaineering cocktail of drizzle and soft wet snow. How do you keep your hands functioning in such conditions when your gloves are soaked?. The view from the team’s winter climbing buffs was that the only answer is to carry multiple pairs of gloves. Paradoxically, colder, sub-zero temperatures, make keeping warm much easier.

Most of the session involved working in small groups on 3 different belay building techniques under the tutelage of head teacher, Mr Sutherland, deputy head, Mr Johnston and head boy Duncan MacLennan. I started in Duncan’s class looking at waist belays from a bucket seat with a buried ice axe as back up. Learning points: make the bucket deep, don’t weaken it by standing on the snow below it, the sling should be clove hitched round the ice axe at its balance point, after taking up your seated position ensure there is no slack in the system. A second vertical axe could be used for reinforcement in front of the horizontal axe.

So far so good – on to Mr Johnston who was teaching on snow bollards. His first group of pupils had built a typical bollard of about 5 foot diameter which failed under load, reflecting the poor snow conditions. We therefore built a massive bollard of about 10 foot diameter which proved resistant to our combined efforts to destroy it. Bollards can be reinforced with axes, rucksacks etc but this removes their greatest asset – the fact that they can be abseiled off without leaving any kit behind. Given our success with the snow bollard, Mr Johnston rewarded us with further instruction on “stomper” belays. Learning points: karabiner can be round the shaft of the axe rather than clipped in to the hole in the axe head, the rope should run over one shoulder to the climber so that any force is downward and, most importantly, in soft snow, the buried axe can pull through the snow, as we found. Beware!

Finally, on to our head teacher, Mr Sutherland. Was he in a good mood? He did seem to be shouting a lot. He was on his special topic as a onetime Maths teacher – “dead men”. The key to success is to get your geometry right. The angle between plate and snow must be 40 degrees. How do you measure 40 degrees without a protractor? Stick the shaft of your axe in at 90 degrees to the slope – use the plate in your hand to bisect the angle between the axe and the slope above – the plate is now at 45 degrees to the slope (you knew that, of course) – now simply lower it a “wee bit” and you have it at the magic 40 degrees – stick it in slightly at that angle, then using it as a visual guide, use your axe to build a slot at the same angle. Once you’ve got the plate in the slot put the shaft of your axe through the eye of the leash and tug from below to bed the plate in. My first effort failed at this point. Mr Sutherland was very understanding – he thought the snow was probably not deep enough. Having moved laterally, my plate, and I, both passed the test.

By now the wind was up and it was getting pretty unpleasant. I hoped that school might be let out early but Mr S is a hard man. We were going to do a multi pitch stretcher lower without a stretcher. Lucky me was chosen to simulate a stretcher, hitched to “Dark Horse”, John Moffat. After, a chilling delay whilst multiple anchors were set up in 2 locations, the “stretcher” was lowered down 2 pitches – a kind of test of trust in your classmates. John and I certainly felt very close! But all went seamlessly, including the tricky transition between belay systems.

Top tip from the day: folk who persist in remarking that, “it wasn’t like this in Norway” could become rather unpopular.

Gerry McPartlin

Categories // Training

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Support Torridon MRT

Donate now

Or visit our support page to find out how you can help.
Training

St John Scotland

Gallery
Torridon Mountain Rescue Team is in Scotland.

3 weeks ago

Torridon Mountain Rescue Team
CALLOUT WHILE TRAININGIt was a normal August monthly training session in Shieldaig this Sunday, where we were refreshing our technical rope rescue skills at the local crag.That was until early afternoon, when the call came in for a crashed paraglider in the hills above Strathcarron. With limited information, but the potential for serious injuries, we quickly derigged and hit the road. Our team arrived and were lifted onto the hill by Coastguard helicopter R151, where they worked alongside the local ambulance paramedics and Winch Paramedic to provide initial care to the casualty. Because of the severity of the injuries, the air ambulance was requested, and Helimed 2 was quickly on scene with a Critical Care team.After packaging and making the casualty as comfortable as possible, the team aided with transferring between helicopters for onward travel to hospital in Helimed 5. We wish the casualty all the best with their recovery.Thank you to all the agencies involved in this response, including @maritimecoastguard @scotambserviceOur team is made up entirely of volunteers who are on call 24/7, 355 days a year. We rely on public donations to enable our work. Please consider donating at the link in our bio.@scottishmountainrescue#mountainrescue #prehospital #CriticalCare ... See MoreSee Less

Photo

View on Facebook
· Share

Share on Facebook Share on Twitter Share on Linked In Share by Email

Torridon Mountain Rescue Team updated their cover photo.

4 weeks ago

Torridon Mountain Rescue Team
Torridon Mountain Rescue Team's cover photo ... See MoreSee Less

Photo

View on Facebook
· Share

Share on Facebook Share on Twitter Share on Linked In Share by Email

Torridon Mountain Rescue Team updated their cover photo.

4 weeks ago

Torridon Mountain Rescue Team
Torridon Mountain Rescue Team's cover photo ... See MoreSee Less

Photo

View on Facebook
· Share

Share on Facebook Share on Twitter Share on Linked In Share by Email

Torridon MRT team members area

       Scottish Mountain Rescue
        St John Scotland

Contact

Team Leader
teamleader[at]torridonmrt.org.uk

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Twitter

Support Torridon MRT

Donate now


Or visit our support page to find out how you can help.

© 2025 · Torridon Mountain Rescue Team · Website by www.emmanoblecreates.co.uk · Cookie Policy · Privacy Policy